Makeup Application Tips

Below are some tried-and-true makeup application tips that I’ve picked up along the way. Whether you consider yourself a makeup guru or cosmetically challenged, hopefully some of this will be of use to you!

Mascara»
Eyeliner»
Foundation/Concealer»
Blush»

Mascara

In general, mascaras come in two formulas: lengthening and/or thickening. Any other formulas, in my opinion, are obsolete. The results of any mascara are a lot depended on the design of the wand. Mascara wands come in all shapes and sizes. It is up to us to scout for one(s) that suit us best.

When applying mascara, start at the base of the lashes and slightly wiggle your way up. Add as many coats as you like; I like to apply more coats to the outer lashes for an ultra feminine look. Be sure to wipe any excess product off the wand to avoid clumps.

Expert tip: I highly recommend using an emollient base for your mascara to condition the lashes and deepen the effect of the formula. Lancome Cils Booster is a fabulous mascara base; it adds more of a lengthening/thickening effect to the lashes and moisturizes them as well. You could even use it on your lashes before bed to condition the lashes as you sleep. An alternative to this pricier option is SRS (Smith’s Rosebud Salve) or even Vaseline.

Steeper: Lancome Definicils mascara is best seller in department stores. Lancome mascaras are well-known for their potency; my personal faves are Lancome Hypnose mascara (for volume) or Lancome L’Extreme mascara (for length).
Cheaper: Maybelline Great Lash mascara is the leading brand in drugstore mascaras.

Eyeliner

We’ll go over the two most common forms of eyeliner: pencil and liquid.

Pencil

If you’re wanting a typical, everyday eyeliner pencil shade, I would suggest an amber or brown color for blondes, red hair, and brunettes; a brown black to jet-black for dark brunettes to jet-black hair.

To apply, sharpen the tip - but not too sharp - and trace along your lash lines, right along your lashes. Blend a bit for the most natural look.

Expert tip: Use a sharper tip to draw a winged effect on the outer corners of your eyes.

Steeper: For smokier eye looks, use a kohl pencil like MAC’s Eye Kohl pencil.
Cheaper: For your everyday clean line, I’ve found that Wet ‘N Wild’s eyeliner pencils work just fine.

Liquid

I’ve gotten a lot of comments from chicas expressing that applying liquid eyeliner is anything but settling. I admit that it does take a steadier hand, but a little practice will make perfect.

Tilt your head up slightly in front of a mirror. Open your mouth a bit while you’re applying the liner - I promise that this keeps you from blinking as much! Now either rest your hand or your cheek or hold it steady next to your eye - whichever is easiest/more comfortable. Start in the inner corner and glide the brush/tip of the liquid liner along your upper lash line, as slow as you need to keep the line steady. When you get the hang of this, you may want to go back and trace it gradually thicker as you get to the end of your lash line (as if it were shadowing the curve of your eyelashes).

Expert tip: Creating a winged effect with liquid liner is much more fun for a dramatic look!

Low maintenance tip: Use liquid on the upper lash line and pencil on the lower lash line if you tend to tear easily (smeared liquid liner is not a pretty sight).

Steeper: Lancome Artliner is an indispensable liquid liner staple. It has a felt tip and lasts forever.
Cheaper: To this day I will use and love Wet ‘n Wild’s liquid eyeliner! Brush-tipped applicators tend to be my faves. I’m an artist, what can I say.

Foundation/Concealer

You’ll want to choose your tool according to which consistency you are applying.

Liquid

Hands down, a foundation or concealer brush is the prime tool for applying a liquid formula. You could even use your fingers if you’re low fuss. I tend to stay away from sponges when opting for liquid, as the sponge will simply absorb most of the product. A foundation/concealer brush is a good investment, as it can be washed and reused over and over again and you’ll inevitably save money on product.

To apply a liquid coverage to my own face or on a client, I simply dispense a dime-sized amount of the product on the back of my hand (and repeat as many times as needed). I then dip the brush into the product, and apply in short blending strokes to areas of the face such as cheeks, forehead, and corners of the nose. For more coverage, apply in longer strokes and blend well into the hairline and under the chin.

For extra staying powder, set the liquid with a loose powder.

Note If you’re purchasing brushes to use for a liquid foundation as well as concealer, remember that a brush designed for concealer application is typically about 4 times smaller than a foundation brush. For good reason: the teeny size of the concealer brush allows you to maneuver the product around smaller spaces such as the inner corners of the eyes and the corners on either side of the nose.

Low maintenance tip: Buy only a foundation brush and use your ring finger to apply concealer. Or, use your fingers only to apply either formula.

Steeper: Lancome Color ID liquid foundation; Clinique Perfectly Real liquid foundation
Cheaper: Maybelline Instant Age Rewind liquid foundation (don’t be fooled by the name; I used this when I was 17 and loved it!)

Mousse or Cream

With thicker formulas, you can easily get away with using a sponge without wasting much product. I use my Lancome foundation brush or Sonia Kashuk concealer brush for -everything- but if I’m in a hurry, a sponge will suffice.

Low maintenance tip: Here’s another finger-painting opportunity! This doesn’t get quite as messy as with liquid.

Steeper: Lancome Magique Matte mousse foundation; MAC Studio Fix cream foundation
Cheaper: Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse foundation

Powder

Most all powder compacts come with a sponge. Easy enough! But for lighter coverage, one may opt to use a powder brush – especially to set a liquid formula.

Be sure especially with powders to moisturize your skin before application. Halloween only comes one day out of the year, and chances are today isn’t the day.

Steeper: Clinique Perfectly Real powder compact
Cheaper: Maybelline Dream Matte powder

Blush

Powder

A blush brush will work fine. Depending on whether you’re highlighting or contouring your cheekbones, there are round- or blunt-tipped brushes available (the latter if you’re contouring).

Expert tip I like to apply a liquid highlighter to the apples of my cheeks for shimmer and holding power for powder blush (Clinique Color Rub is a great highlighter). Using a highlighter first also enables you to use less blush, because the color feedback is much stronger with using a small amount. I then apply a rose or plum color to the apples of the cheeks (depending on skintone – rosy for fair complexions, plum for darker skin). Lastly, I use a darker brown shade to contour the cheekbones (if you’re dark complexioned like myself, a matte dark brown eyeshadow will suffice). Blend well.

Cream

For a more fresh-faced, dewy look (especially choice in warmer weather), a cream can be applied with your fingers to the apples of your cheeks – and even your eyelids - for the best feedback.

More to come!